 |
| A kind of circumpunct. Google Earth |
Back when I was knee-deep in researching
"les Saintes Puelles", I managed to visit the village which bears their name (Mas-Saintes-Puelles) in the Lauragais. Not wanting to take the motorway home, I decided to meander my way back along the smaller highways and byways in order to get a better peep at the villages along the route.
Both the motorway and smaller roads follow the course of the
Canal du Midi. This canal is an engineering marvel, extending 150 miles from Bordeaux on the Atlantic to Sète on the Mediterranean Sea. As many as 91 locks, some of them multi-tiered, and a total of 328 structures form part of its course: bridges carry the canal over rivers and highways; there is a dam and at one point it goes through a tunnel. Approved in 1666 and begun the next year, it only took a surprising 14 years to be completed, in 1681. The canal was the brainchild of Pierre-Paul Riquet, engineer and tax farmer, a man of great wealth and vision. The project consumed him and he died the year before it was completed.
Today, Riquet is honored across France. Innumerable streets bear his name and several monuments are dedicated to him. It is one of these monuments which concerns us here.
 |
| The Obelisk. LoS photo. |
The summit of the canal du Midi is located at the
Seuil de Naurouze, aka Col de Naurouze...a mountain pass in southern France. It is the watershed point identified by Pierre-Paul Riquet when he designed and built the Canal du Midi. Water falling on the western side of this point flows to the Atlantic Ocean and on the eastern side to the Mediterranean Sea.
When I came across this place I was attracted by an enormous obelisk which thrust upward from a tree-covered hill by the side of the road. Parking, I walked towards this and found at the summit of the hill a high and perfectly circular wall with a locked gate. In the center of this was a series of large boulders and upon these, the obelisk.
LoS has long been interested in several themes. Perhaps one of our first obsessions was the idea of sacred
waters. As we wrote, it also became apparent that we were interested in sacred
stones.
Obelisks, too, form a large part of our repertoire. (Follow these links and see for yourself). This monument explicitly brings all these elements together.
At the gate one finds a pair of explanatory panels of much more recent origin. One of the texts says the obelisk is
....a monument constructed in 1827 upon the stones of Narouze in homage to P.P. RIQUET, creator of the Canal du Midi (1680).
...
The troubadours sung of these [stones] during the Middle Ages and according to the legend, when these stones touch, the end of the world will be at hand. (my abridgement and translation)
The second text tells us the obelisk is 20 meters (almost 66 feet) in height and at its base, allegorical figures are carved in bas-relief. The north face features Minerva, symbolizing wisdom, and Mercury, symbolizing commerce. (Both of these gods have featured in LoS posts in the past, Minerva as
patroness of the Bohemian Grove and Mercury as seen on the
"macaron" of the BIPM).
The panels specify the symbolism of the gods portrayed and although their attributes are much more varied, I think we can assume the official explanation is accurate. France places a high value on its engineers and scientific achievements and indeed, the Revolution stressed the values of reason and rational thinking. "Wisdom" is a national virtue. Mercury, representing commerce, is a logical choice. The canal was not built for pleasure boating. Indeed, it was a way to facilitate the transport of merchandise, one motivation being that the route around the Iberian Peninsula was long and rampant with pirates.
On the south, a nymph symbolizing the Montagne Noire (Black Mountain) pours water from an urn into the
"rigole de la plaine" a complicated structure of basins and locks which helps to assure the perennial supply of water for the canal.
This flow of water then divides into two parts to symbolize the division of water, i.e. the watershed point. Neptune pours this water to the Atlantic and Venus, to the Mediterranean.
Now, while Neptune is also quite an evident choice as god of the seas and oceans, I was at first puzzled by the inclusion of Venus. But I myself have already written on
Venus' extensive association with the sea: she was after all, born from its foam and carried to land upon a shell. She comes from the sea and here returns water to it. Full circle. Perhaps both symbolic and very concrete; the engineering genius of the canal is the way it combines natural sources with a complex series of lock and basins and artificial lakes to guarantee that the water is constantly re-supplied.
Venus is also a precursor of the Virgin as Stella Maris, Star of the Sea, the significance of which I will return to in a moment.
It would seem as if so many of the themes we've explored on LoS are encapsulated here in this monument. When I decided to finally get to this post after 8 or so months, I hadn't done much by way of research; but when I began to dig a bit, I came across a doozy of a page which further explains the legend behind these stones, associated somehow with the end of the world.
It seems fitting for the Riquet heirs to have built a monument to their illustrious ancestor at the watershed of his creation, but that it coincides with such a rich legendary history is pure gold. I don't know if the Riquet family was aware of these legends, but whoever put up these panels was. They didn't do the legends justice. It took me but little time to find out more at the website of the Societé Perillos.
I will here quote rather liberally from a page entitled
The stones at the end of the world but you should really go there and read the entirety in order to get a wider picture:
....the top of [the memorial] is a series of rocks that forms the subjects of our interest. For Nostradamus, deemed to be one of the most famed prophets, these stones were highly symbolic, as he claimed that when these seven rocks, each separated by various fissures, would rejoin, the end of the world would arrive.
....legend has it that they were transported by a giant, Naurouzo, and that they were to be used to build Toulouse. However, it appeared that the giant learned that the city had been completed without him, and in his fury, he threw these stones down where they have remained ever since.
I would add that this idea of giants throwing down stones to explain rock formation is a common folkloric element in France. Likewise micturation to explain the origins of rivers.
Furthermore:
They [the stones] featured, under the name of “Peiras d’Alzona” in songs of the 13th century troubadour Ramon de Mireval. One should underline that there is another Alzonne, not too distant yet not immediately in the vicinity either, a bit further in the direction of Carcassonne.
In the 15th century, the bishop of St Papoul, Pierre Soybert, also wrote about the stones. He refers to them as the “Rocha de Nau Rosa”....He also relates about a prophecy that seems disquieting for the mental health of humanity, rather than for the world as such. He states that “when the stones of Naurouze touch, the world will become shameless.”
In origin, the name Alzona comes from “Al” and “Ona”. Al relates to water, and Ona is linked with a place. Its link with the separation of the waters is hence to be expected, but there is also the famous miraculous fountain known as “Font Alzona”, as well as the “Elusio”, the spas, both of which are close to this site.
As to Naurouze, let us note that it was apparently derived from “Nau Rosa”, which can be translated as “the new flower” or “the new rosa”, or even “the lady of the rose”, or “the rose lady”.
Okay. I don't know about the reliability of the etymology of the name Alzona. It seems to be quite widespread in the Philippines, leading me to suspect a Spanish origin, but there are also Alzonas in Italy as well. Generally speaking, words beginning with "al" are Arabic in origin (algebra, alcohol) and effect seen more clearly in Spanish than English. Alzona could have worked its way from Iberia into the Occitan language which is still spoken today in a tiny corner of Catalonia and Italy and is the traditional (but dying) language of the Midi. This may or may not be important, but as the Societé Perillos page continues:
....this hill is not unique in its prophetic alliance....Islam has the tradition of a place known as Rhama, where the stones were said to be able to lock together if pilgrims passed between them. Not just any pilgrims, but women that cried according to an established sacred ritual.
Again, I cannot verify the etymology of the word Narouze, although it
is an Arabic surname. The idea that it originally meant "new rose" seems a bit suspect, but nonetheless the 15th-century belief that it did is itself significant. Interestingly, the use of the name here is associated with a woman. As
we have seen time and again on LoS, roses are often associated with saintly women, the Virgin Mary at the top of the list. St. Thérèse and St. Germaine, the saint of the Midi, are likewise associated with miracles of roses. Didn't Elton John refer to Lady Di as England's rose? Aren't "England's roses" metaphorically the beautiful young women of England? Is this why we see Venus at the base of the obelisk? (Wouldn't we all like to have Venus at the base of our obelisks?)
Recall that legend mentioned above. It is
women pilgrims who can bring forth the miracle (not-so-clearly) therein described. This may not be an ancient preoccupation, but the association of women with the canal certainly figures in modern histories. Wikipedia states baldly "The women labourers were surprisingly important to the canal's engineering." and dedicates a paragraph of a roughly 20-paragraph article to explain why. It also mentions that the "staircase of eight locks at Fonsérannes....was built by a workforce composed mainly of women."
All that said, I don't know if there should be any emphasis placed on the sacred feminine, even though it does fit in with the higher status accorded women in the historical Midi. I'm also unsure of what this Arabic link may mean, apart from the lingering cross-cultural influences which appeared during the Muslim occupation of Spain and the Reconquista. Sacred stones/springs appear in various legends which involve Christians and Moorish opponents, from the legend of St. Fris to that of
Pelayo, the Visigoth who kicked off the Reconquista.
According to the Perillos site the stones at Narouze are part of an ancient meme:
[Another] such sacred pagan location was Belle-Île, where it was said that two megaliths, at night-time and secretly, came closer to each. Jean and Jeanne, the name of the two standing stones, at the time of an astronomical conjunction (the exact nature of which is unknown) would be reunited and would exact their revenge on Mankind, under the form of a tidal wave that would wipe us out. The same legend is known on the île de Sein, as well as near Tredion where the rocks are known as Babouin and Babouine [masculine and feminine forms of "baboon"]. Here, local tradition links them with the time of Christmas, and especially the moment when the genealogy of Jesus is read out. They also become displaced during the twelve strokes of midnight....and when the rocks move, it is said that an incredible treasure is unveiled.
Again, see the
"legend of the seven cows of gold" in the post about St. Fris, which bears some similarity to this last legend (treasure, water, stones, stroke of midnight, the number seven, a kind of music).
On page 158 of [the] re-edition [of “Livre du passé Mystérieux”, 1973 by Robert Laffont...this surname is French and refers to someone who lived near a spring or well!], we find a subtitle “Pierres à oracles. Fin de Marseille!” – “Oracle stones. The end of Marseilles!”
Charroux [the first man to write about Rennes-le-Chateau, which is about 80 kilometers distant] writes about prophecies and notes that “near Rennes-le-Château” there is a rock formation. A local legend states that they were thrown from the sky by a giant who, after his temper had settled down, prophesised that “when the rocks would rejoin, the end of the world would come”.
Of course, Charroux does not speculate further, instead opting to tackle the “Seuil de Naurouze”, finishing with a prediction made by a certain de Novage who, in 1905, saw Marseilles being swept away by a wave, which heralded radical changes for the geology of the entire globe.
So, how bout them noon blue apples? Since very early on LoS, we have noted several instances where sacred stones and sacred waters are to found at the same locations, such as at the
Garden of Eden and the
Kaaba, among others. From the discovery of
St. Fris to the death of Santiago de Compostela, to the legends surrounding
Virgin Martyrs. Interesting that in this case, the movement or joining together of great stones heralds the arrival of destruction by water.
Flood myths figure in a number of religious traditions, but the Biblical precedent probably explains the recurrence here. Remember that at Narouze there are seven stones and that God, commanding Noah to build the Ark, specified that he bring seven pairs of each type of animal to be saved. Also recall that the Ark, after the rains abated, came to rest upon a high place such as hill upon which the obelisk is erected. In Jewish and Christian tradition, this is Mt. Ararat, although early Christian, Islamic and Yazidi tradition has it as Mt. Judi. (It also just struck me that the US agency responsible for monitoring weather and the oceans is
NOAA; I just visited and the lead story says "Be safe about floods". I can't make this stuff up.)
So this high place with its seven stones and the apocalyptic associations links it squarely within the Abrahamic tradition. In addition to this are Celtic precedents in which groves, high places, waterways and springs, as well as standing stones, were accorded sacred status.
I found myself wondering why this movement of stones would signal the apocalypse but we would do well to the legends around Atlantis and the speculation about the fate of the Cretan civilization, as well as the recent examples of the great tsunami in 2004 and that of Japan in 2011. In all these cases we speak of vast destruction and oblivion by great waves of water, set into motion by earthquakes--great stones crashing together. Whatever mystical explanations we can find are also supported by the more concrete reality of geological instability.
So, I'll stop here, but knowing how things like this go, I'll soon see another piece of the puzzle to set me off again....
